How to Sharpen Garden Shears in 4 Simple Steps

In general, all garden shears can be sharpened with the same steps: disassembly, cleaning, sharpening the cutting edge, and reassembly and oiling. However, some tools can be partially or entirely disassembled, and some are not meant to be taken apart. If your tool can be broken down into parts, it will make the work of cleaning and sharpening the blades easier. However, if yours don’t come apart, skip the first step and follow the rest.

1. Disassemble the tool.

   Many garden shears and loppers are assembled with bolts to allow them to be taken apart. They may be hex heads, Allen bolts, or even screws. Grab the correct wrench and loosen the bolt(s), being careful of the blade edge. Just because it needs sharpening doesn’t mean it can’t cut you if your wrench or hand slips.

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   Turn the wrench counterclockwise (remember lefty-loosey, righty-tighty) and remove the bolt or bolts to disassemble your shears. Watch out for small pieces like lock washers, spacers, and nuts. Lay each of the pieces out in order.

   Work over a clear counter or table and keep the tool close to the surface. If interior pieces fall off unexpectedly, you won’t have to hunt for them on a dirty garage floor or in the grass. And snap a picture before you start so you can see how the pieces should go back together.

2. Clean and dry all parts.

   Shears can get grimy over time from plant residue, sap, and dirt. Gunk and sharp edges don’t mix, and you’ll have an easier time sharpening and using your pruning shears if they are clean. Residues can also build up and force the blades apart, making it hard to get a clean cut no matter how sharp they are.

   Use hot soapy water and a rag to clean the blades. If you have stubborn sap to remove, a household cleaner or some rubbing alcohol usually can do the trick. Work carefully with a scrubbing pad until all grime is removed.

   If you need to remove rust, use steel wool and some penetrating solvent like WD-40 or a rust remover. Keep working until the surface is smooth, even if it remains tarnished.

   When everything is clean, rinse the tool parts off in water and dry them thoroughly.

3. Sharpen the blades.

   This is actually the easiest part of the entire process. Look at the blade of your pruners and find the angled edge, called the bevel. It is usually found only on one side of the blade for pruners (unlike a knife which has a bevel on both sides). 

   The side of the pruner blade with a bevel is the only side that gets sharpened. Don’t use the file to sharpen (and make a bevel) on the flat side–it will ruin the blade’s cutting action, and you’ll have to replace it. 

   To sharpen the beveled edge, grasp the file handle firmly, but only apply light pressure. The file will work without heavy effort. Push the file across the blade in one direction only, matching the bevel angle. Don’t use the file in both directions like a saw; use it in one direction, like petting a cat. File the entire beveled edge until it is shiny. It won’t take long, but it will take more than a few strokes. Be patient and work slowly with good control. When you are done, inspect the shiny edge for any nicks and keep filing until there are none. A nick will be a dull spot that will tear or crush instead of cut cleanly.

   If you notice a slight burr on the opposite side of the blade formed by the filing process, it should be removed. Hold your file absolutely flat to the blade’s backside and gently work it across the burr. This should only take one or two gentle strokes.

4. Oil and Reassemble Your Shears

   Apply a very light oil coating to the metal parts with the rag and reassemble them. Be very careful with that newly sharpened blade to avoid injury.

   Tighten the bolts snugly, but not I’ll-never-get-this-off-again tight. Overtightening will make it harder to disassemble next time, and an overly tight hinge bolt can make your garden shears difficult to operate. If the shears feel too stiff when you try to open them, loosen the bolt a touch until the blades move easily.